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Vendors on the plaza of the Catedral de San Cristóbal Mártir, San Cristóbal de las Casas,

San Cristobal de las Casas

Coming from the humidity and heat of the Yucatan peninsula and then Palenque, the bracing night air San Cristóbal de las Casas high in the mountains of Chiapas, came as a shock to my system. I'd left vacationland and returned to a climate where layers are needed. San

Palenque, Mexico

Palenque, Mexico

So I've cheated a litte on this gallery. Yes, I took most of these photos on this trip but the benefit of retracing a route (with a different camera with a longer lens) is that you can cherry pick pictures to find unobstucted views. I did this partly

Campeche, Mexico

Campeche, Mexico

The history of Campeche, lazing on the Gulf of Mexico, reads like a chapter in Pirates' Own Adventure. Raid after raid from the sea finally saw the Spanish build impressive stone fortifications. Campeche was the eastern mainland port on the (previously-unknown-to-me) trade route that connected Spain to its colonies

Gulls fly over the gentle surf as the sun sets over the Gulf of Mexico at Celestun.

Celestun, Mexico

Celestun is on the Gulf of Mexico. It is famous flamingos. Thousands flock here to nest. Thousands of bird watchers flock here to see them. I came for swimming and beach time. I got neither. I had an epic second class bus ride from Mérida. By calling out the class

A photo of ceviche.

Food in Mérida and the Yucatan

AKA Why I am a terrible food blogger. I was in Mérida in 2008. At the time I was at the beginning of what became a trek across the Yucatán peninsula into Chiapas, Oaxaca and the regions around Mexico City. It was a great trip. But my time in Mérida

An poorly lit photo of delicious lentil soup. Its accompaniment, a caugamon of beer, is visible in the background

Recipe Lentil Soup with Noodles | Sopa de Lentella y Fideo

This is a standard whatever-you-have-in-the-fridge-and-pantry soup recipe. While my truly delightful apartment in Mérida, Mexico had only the standard 2 cooker stove, it did have a nice big soup pot. So I decided to use up my lentils. As sopa de lima is a Yucatan classic and sopa de fideo

A wide angle panorama shows the Mérida cathedral, pre-concert, Plaza Grande and historic building.

Merida: Roads and Architecture

This gallery page is a real grab bag of this and that. You'll find historic churches, random signage and modernist buildings. Some grand and others more humble. The one thing I tried to avoid was people — Instagram, this is not 😏. Enjoy the bricks and stucco! Merida Churches, Squares,

Unispiring photo of the Mérida sign at Plaza Grande.

Mérida, Yucatan | 2023

Mérida is a great city. It's historic center is both busy and dusty and also bright and constantly being restored. When I first came here fifteen years ago, it did not have this punch. While there are still many, many side streets funneling many fast-moving vehicles coughing out

A woman rides a camel past the Taj Mahal.

Travel Featured

Why Travel?

I love to travel. I have always loved to travel. My father was a teacher, which meant the possibility to take (what felt like) long road trips to visit family over the mountains. I desperately wanted to do what the Brits call a gap year but couldn't afford

BBQ Duck on a bed of rice in the with lychee black tea and gai lan and oyster sauce in the background.

An Ingredient List, A Menu, A Declaration!

I have to admit, I have a thing about food blogs. I love to cook. I like cookbooks. I don't like food blogs. There are probably hundreds of cookbooks on my bookshelf. Despite recently downsizing all of my worldly goods, many, many cookbooks made it through the cull.

Recipe: Lime and Bitter Orange Spritzer | Agua de Naranja Agrilla

Recipe: Lime and Bitter Orange Spritzer | Agua de Naranja Agrilla

Cocktail recipe — A refreshing adult spritzer featuring fruits of the Yucatan — bitter orange | naranja agria, key limes, orange liqueur

Photo of festive streamers draped over Parque Candelaria Park in Valladolid, Mexico.

Travel Featured

The Yucatan, Mexico | 2023

I've decided to share my travel photos on this website. I have yet to establish a coordinated structure. Bad Stephen. So let's begin in the beginning of 2023, in the Yucatan. First stop — Playa del Carmen Just down the coast from Cancun, Playa del Carmen is